The Dreissen and the Virgin: A sad story of frosting

This is not a fairy tale nor a happy story. This is about a lesson in life and a little lesson about chemistry components reaction.

When coming to Mobile Suit type, what I love most are coming from the MS-09 Dom lineage (hence the name Domtropen, duh) and thus where the story start. After a long and joyful building, painting and decaling, finally I finished my beloved HGUC AMX-009 Dreissen (Unicorn Ver.). It's really late and the decals are not dried yet, so I left it to dry and go to sleep with a smile in the face. The next morning, with passion and determination, I applied flat topcoat to finish it. But alas, something happened.

The flat top coat on the kit forming some kind of foggy crystals, as if the kit been put on a freezer overnight. I have read about this before, it's called "frosting". This happens when water molecules from humidity in the air trapped behind the layer of top coat. Mind you, this is the first time it's happens to me.

off course this is not my Dreissen, just found it in internet to show what frosting looks like

Sad and broken hearted, I searched all over the internet a cure for my beloved Dreissen without destroying the decals and the paint job. I found some tips and tried it, but with no success.
Until I stumble into this trick I've found in a Warhammer forum: "Applied Virgin olive oil on the kit to remove frosting" so I tried it, I brushed olive oil on the Dreissen. And it works like magic...
The frosting subsiding, leaving only some minor frosting on the corners that I can live with. After a while, I used soft dish soap and lukewarm water to wash away the oil leftovers. The results are stunning. Not only the frosting disappeared, the paint, decals and top coat stays as if this whole disaster never happened! Now, The Mighty Dreissen can wait majestically for his photo session in the display cabinet.

But this is not the happily happy ever after end story...

About a month later, I took the Dreissen for a photo session. When I try to pose him, suddenly the left elbow join snapped. not just break like a twig, but literally crumbled into 3 pieces as if its a potato chips. Shock and angry, I checked all over the kit trying to figure out what happened. But disasters struck, both the holder of the front skirt lap also shattered, the joint of the right knee loosen and all ball joints in the hips and ankles too. The tip of the ball joint became crisp like a cheap plastic that have been left under the sun for ten years.

this also breaks my heart

After I searched in the internet I believe this is what happened:  Apparently there are drying and non-drying oil, and Olive oil is a non-drying oil. That's means it won't dries forever... and ever. Meanwhile, oil absorb PVC from plastic the longer they are in contact, making plastic weak and lose their durability in long term.
When I wash the olive oil with soap, I couldn't open all the Dreissen's joints apart since some of them already cemented and sprayed with paint. Apparently some oil manage to slip into that joints connection an stay there unwashed. Slowly but sure, they gnawing the plastic from inside.

the accused

Mighty Dreissen may never recover again. I had some thought to buy another Dreissen, but i feel guilty like abandoning a pet because its crippled and adopt a new pet. I try to repair it, but with my current skill, i couldn't do anything.

All in all, this is my fault for being rush and reckless, and i pay the price. 

I'm sorry Dreisseno, i'm so sorry... Maybe someday...

MS-06F ZAKU II

The Backbone of Principality of Zeon's forces, the work horses of one year war, the love and pride of Zeon.

MS-06F

HG The Origin MS-06C Zaku II C-type

Scale 1:144

-Repaint

-Lining

-Decals

-Custom weapons

The MS-06F Zaku II series was one of the most produced and versatile mobile suits of the One Year War. And even after its performance was surpassed by its successor mobile suits, like the MS-07B Gouf, the MS-09B Dom, and the MS-14A Gelgoog, it would still see wide-scale service both on the front lines and behind the scenes after the war's end.

With MMP-78 Zaku Machine gun

Sidearm Zaku Bazooka

3-Tubes missile pods 

on action

GWOOOOONG!

MS-05B ZAKU I DEMOLITION TEAM

MS-05B Zaku I was developed as the first combat-use mass-production mobile suit, but it was soon superseded by the MS-06C Zaku II. After that, it was phased out and mainly consigned to auxiliary duties such as training, construction and supply duties. But some of them still be able to see the battlefield from the front lines.

HG The Origin MS-05 Zaku I
Scale: 1:144
-Repaint
-Lining
-Decals
-Custom weapons

Old, but not obsolete

Excuse me, high explosive coming through...

how do you like this, now?

Explosive set, now let's get back and see the fireworks

A guide into wild Water Slide Decals adventure

After a long time, finally my stack of water slide decals arrived just right before the holiday. it means this holidays will filled with laughter and joy of my long lines of already finished Mobile Suit which already waiting their decals for months.

For those who don't know what water slide decal is, for simple: its some kind of sticker for Model kits that you have to soaked it with water first to peel it from the paper and stick it to the models. for more information, you can google it or search it on Youtube with key word "Water Slide Decals".

I've used slide decals quite a while since i'm back building kits again two years ago by watching many youtube tutorials. I wont call myself an expert too since i just use it casually on my kits. But this time, after a 4 days straight decal-ing  about half dozen Mobile suits, i've found a number of "do" and "don't" in the world of decals that i didn't find in those videos. and i learns this the hard way...

1. The bigger the decals, the easier they teared when transferred. Yes, they do. when decals absorbing water, they start dissolving so that they can  peeled from the paper. But in doing so, they became fragile. When you move them around, their weight can ripped the decal itself. The bigger the decals, the heavier they get when soaked.

2. The smaller the decals, the easier they are to get lost. When you putting the decal, sometimes it slip behind the paper, but when you flip the paper you cant find it there. you look around on your fingers, on the desk but you cant find it anywhere. Is this ever happened to you? I believe there is a phantom zone for decals, and the smaller those decals are, the easier they slip into that zone.

3.Too much water will kill you, too little water will kill you either. When you transfer the decal to the models, a little water will help you to move it around, without it the decal will stuck and could ripped if you force it. But if the water is too much, it'll slip from the place.

4. Art knife is your moving partner. Some tutorial use cotton bud to move around the decals. However I find it hard to use cotton bud for moving decals, since a dry cotton bud will absorb the water so the decal stuck and couldn't be moved while wet cotton bud sometimes add water or even makes the decal stuck to the cotton bud instead of the models. Also for small decal, art knife tip wouldn't hide the decals from your view.

5. Little holes that helps. In big decals, sometimes water trapped behind it. When you pushed it with cotton bud to get the water out, it's moves the decal from their position. To avoid this, makes some little holes by puncturing the decals with needle or art knife.

6. Put it from right to left. Since I'm a right handed, I hold the decal paper with tweezers on the left hand and move the decal to the model using art knife with my right hand. Therefore' with some decals that lies together, decals on the left could ruined by the wet paper of the new decal. To avoid it, I put the decals from right to left. For example for number "31" I put "1" first then "3".

7. Always change the water. I know this is a common sense, but I learned it the hard way. After a long decals session on the night, I stopped and go to sleep. When I continue the next day, without checking first i put the decal on the water from last night, apparently the water already infested with oil and bug. This is how i lost a precious decal.

8. Trust in tools. When it comes to see if the decals aligned or are they on the same length, don't rely on your eyes or your feelings. Use tools such as rules, pencil tips or whatever. Eyes can be deceiving but tools won't lies.

Number 9 and down is based on my taste, everybody could have their own preference but this is what I do with my models.

9. Symmetrical rules. Except for numbers, logo or insignia. On symmetrical parts I usually put the same decals to balancing it.

10. Not too crowded. I know how much you love Katoki, but please, also consider your models feelings. In 1:144 scale, I usually avoiding put more than 2 decals in one plates unless in special cases.

So far this is what i remembered, maybe i'll update it some more when something cross my mind.

RMS-119RC EWAC ZACK RECON

After the fall of Titans, many Titans mobile suit captured by Neo-Zeon and converted. Among them is RMS-119 EWAC Zack.

Too cool to be Titans y'all

Base: HGUC RMS-119 EWAC Zack
Scale 1:144
-Custom Color
-Decals
-Modification on front skirt, back skirt thruster, Hig Output Antenna "Lance" with Relay antenna cable to disk head,

Since Hizack has a very resemblance with the pride of Zeon, Zaku II. they fits perfectly with the line of Zeon Mobile Suit and became favorite among the veterans.
The Zeon engineer makes some modifications and improvement, such as higher output antenna to increase area detection and extra external fuel tanks. the down side of this are, EWAC Zack almost has no firepower to defend himself but 2x small caliber head Vulcan on the left head, and 3x Chaff grenade on the waist to cover its retreat. Because of that, This unit always deployed with an escort.
The unit named RMS-119RC EWAC Zack Recon and nicknamed "Dish Head"

That's an antenna, not a javelin.

Must be inspired by Alien Queen. Hello, Giger call, he wants that head back.

Amazing! he didn't fall with that head

I'm Blue – da ba dee da ba dye, da ba dee da ba dye...

MUSAI-CLASS CC-62 NORDHAUSEN

Musai-Class Light Cruiser Nordhausen (CC-62) was commissioned in March UC 0076, and saw extensive service in One Year War, from Battle of Loum, Solomon Attack, until she met her final fate on Battle of A Baoa Qu.

Principality of Zeon pride comes in 1:1200 scale

EX-Model Musai Battleship
Scale 1:1200
-Repainted
-lining
-minor decals

Services:
On January 15, UC 0079. In the Battle of Loum, Nordhausen served as a part of spearhead battalion under the command of General Dozle Zabi of Zeon's Space Attack Force. During this time, Nordhausen receiving major damage. A volley of beam cannon piercing her lower right hull and the bridge connector, killing 24 of her crew instantly and inevitably forcing her to withdraw.

After the battle, Nordhausen Repaired and revitted to carry Mobile Suit. On March 20, UC 0079 she's back on service for the second time with addition housing A mobile suit Squad consist of 3 Zaku IIF and 1 spare Zaku IIF stored on Her Komusai.

On 24 December, UC 0079. In Battle of Solomon, Nordhausen is one of the last ships to left AsteroidFortress Solomon after aiding in the evacuation of that base.

On 31 December, UC 0079. After regrouping and reorganized, Nordhausen along with dozen of ships and MS Squads assign to defending A Baoa Qu S-field thus became her last services for Zeon.

The Final fate:
On the Battle of A Baoa Qu, a beam cannon destroys Nordhausen right parts of the first bridge, killing the Captain and almost all of the officers. then two missiles hits her, one on the upper right bow and one on the left engines, severely damaging both areas.Having loss of command, crippled and uncontrollably fire, the ship thrown into disarrays.
When the news of A Baoa Qu falls aired, Musai-class Schleswig contacted Nordhausen but unable to send a rescue teamdue to the damages she suffered. All she can do is guiding Nordhausen to evacuate through the E-field towards Side-3. But the damages is to severe, soon the left engines reactor reached critical mass and explodes, in the counts of millisecond, the fire reach the ammunition room and destroying the internal structures.

January 1, UC 0080. Musai-Class Light Cruiser Nordhausen (CC-62) sunk, taking all of her 285 crews with her.

Amazing details in a small places

Musai EX-Model

Size comparison with Risoles

Only consist of 3 runners

Warning: contains microscopic metal parts for the bridge antennae, not for the faint hearted!

got 2 bridges, one normal musai bridge, the other is Falmel bridge (Char's musai) and an extra bridge top with plastic antennae, incase you got clumsy and losing the metal antennae. (i did, i lose the left antennae for almost half hour)

Last footage of Nordhausen. source: MS Igloo Apocalypse 0079 "Soul returns to Thunder"

RX-110 GABTHLEY "BISHOP"

Base:
HGUC RX-110 GABTHLEY
Scale: 1:144
-Decals
-Custom Paint
-Custom Beam Bazooka
-Minor Horn Modification
On January UC. 0088, Titans Headquarters "Gate of Zedan" (formerly known as A Baoa Qu) destroyed after rammed by Asteroid base "Axis". Soon, Neo-Zeon scientist scavenging the place and captured 5 different Titans Mobile Suit for test subject and reverse technology.
When the first Neo-Zeon war broke out on March UC. 0088, having lacks of mobile suits to fights in the rebellion, Glemmy faction resort to whatever they have in hand. These 5 Testing Units Mobile Suit are drafted into a squad called "Redeemer Corps" and sent to battle with their test pilots.
In that First Neo-Zeon War, two units of Redeemer Corps destroyed and one damaged beyond repair. The last two units survived the war and flee with other survivors.
For years there are no news of them until this one unit, Gabthley "Bishop" shows up with The Sleeves marking on Laplace Conflict.

Even Titans looks good in Sleeves color.

Armed with double Beam Bazookas. it could be some new enhanced beam Bazookas, or they just grab whatever weapons left in the storage...

weird bug-looking ship that's look like just half transformed. You got to hand it down to Paptimus Scirocco for making people feeling uneasy. this is his design, your argument is invalid.

.

PRINCIPALITY OF ZEON ARMORY

Zeon armament from (mostly) One Year War. Collected from various 1:144 Model kits
-Custom Painted
-Decals

M-120A1 Zaku Machine gun from HGTO 1/144 MS-06C Zaku II (Above),
MMP-78 Zaku Machine gun from HGUC 1/144 MS-06F2 Zaku F2 (Below).

MMP-80 Ver.8 from HGUC MS-09RD2 Rick Dom II (above).
MMP-80 Late Version from HGUC MS-09F trop Domtropen (Below).

ZUX-197 Jagdgewehr Shotgun (Folded grip and unfolded grip) from HGUC MS-18E Kampfer.

- H&L-SB25K/280mm A-P Zaku Bazooka from HGUC MS-06S Zaku II Char.
- Zaku Bazooka Type 2A from HGTO MS-06C Zaku II.

-H&L-GB05R/360mm Giant Bazooka from HGUC MS-09/09R Dom/Rick Dom.
-H&L-GB03K/360mm Giant Bazooka from HGUC MS-08TX/S Efreet Schneid

-360mm Giant Bazooka II from HGUC MS-09R-2 Rick Dom 2
-RB-T27/880mm Raketen Bazooka from HGUC MS-09F trop Domtropen

-Gelgoog Beam Rifle from HGUC MS-14A Gelgoog
-Prototype Beam Rifle from System Weapon 002

-Beam Machine Gun from System Weapon 002
-MNG-110 Beam Machine Gun from HGUC MS-14Fs Gelgoog Marine Commander type

-Ex-T2-2 Beam Bazooka Early Version from HGTO YMS-08B Dom Test Type
-Ex-T2-2 Beam Bazooka late Version from HGUC MS-09/09R Dom/Rick Dom

-ASR-78 Anti Ship Rifle from HGTO MS-06C Zaku IIC
-135 mm Anti Ship Rifle from HGUC EMS-10 Zudah

-Knuckle Shield from System Weapon 006
-Gatling Shield from HGUC MS-07B-3 Gouf Custom

-Chain Mines from MS-18E Kampfer(opened) & AMX-101E Schuzrum Galluss (folded)
-Sturm Faust from MS-18E Kampfer, MS-09R-2 Rick Dom II, MS-09F Trop Domtropen

Look at that! its so small my plus eyes sights might add a few numbers. 

AMX-014 DOVEN WOLF OF THE BLUE SLEEVES

HGUC AMX-014 DOVEN WOLF SLEEVES COLOR
Scale: 1:144
-Decals

Survivor of the first and second Neo-Zeon wars, Doven Wolf of The Blue Sleeves.

Mark of the Captain.

Weird and strange belly rifle of doom.

Awkwardly tall but equally handsome Doven Wolf of the Blue Sleeves